9.14.2014
It is a chilly day starting off in the mid 40’s. Our fellow pilgrims are overjoyed that there is relief from the heat. John and I have loaded up on layers and have on our gloves and still shiver while one of our California pilgrims is walking in shorts and a tee shirt. Reminds me of when we moved from Houston to CT and Mathew would go to soccer practice in his gloves and winter hat while the rest of his team mates thought it was hot. The walk begins at the ruins of the old Convent of San Anton. The gothic ruins have their origin as a hospital built in the XII century to care for the victims of Fire of San Anton which was an illness like leprosy. Attached to the ruins is a albergue where we get another stamp for our passport.
We continue on to the village of Castrogeriz. The town itself has been declared a site of cultural interest. It apparently played a significant role in the history of Castile. We were struck by the amount of renovation taking place of the homes. Also, along the narrow cobble streets were many dogs either sitting outside the entrances to their homes waiting to be let in or others taking themselves on their morning walks. Again, none of them on leash and all ignoring us. We saw a dog that looked just like John and Kate’s Ruby sitting on a front stoop watching the pilgrims walk by. It made us smile as it reminded us of Ruby sitting on her front porch except this dog had no invisible fence coller. Past Castorgeriz, we have another steep climb and descent but it is not too challenging as the path is wide and paved in small gravel as opposed to the big stones we found near Pamplona. This is an area of beautiful Castilian plateaus surrounded by golden grain fields. You can see for miles. It reminds us of driving through the badlands of South Dakota. Our guide book describes it as long and lonely paths with a seemingly unreachable horizon. We are only getting a taste so it does not seem that way to us. I actually feel like I would be content to just walk the paths forever. We cross a bridge into the province of Palencia.
Our pick up stop is in the village of Itero de la Vega. We have lunch at a cafe – I have fried eggs and bacon and John has a hamburger!! We then wait for the remainder of our group. The wait today is over 2 hours. I tell John that the waits are disrupting my Camino psyche. He says I am just an odd duck!
From Itero de la Vega we drive 90 minutes to Leon. As we enter the busy city of Leon, we are happy not to have to walk “through” this city of pilgrims. I wish I could have walked more of the Camino but do not miss the walk through the larger cities. Leon originated from a Roman camp around 29BC and came to be a primary kingdoms of medieval Spain. We walk around the city and have a bite to eat. Tomorrow we will have our first rest day from walking so we will tour Leon including the Cathedral.