Stage 1 Roncesvalles to Alto dell Erro (18km/11.1mi)

9.10.2016
Today we begin our ascent towards the Alto de Arro through the Pyrenees of Navarra. The weather is perfect – high 60’s to start with – the sun following us the entire journey. As we start, we pass the Gothic Cross of the Pilgrims which was transported to its current spot in 1880 to serve as an unmistakable sign of the historic pilgrimage passage. Along our way we pass through towns and villages all with the recognizable Basque architecture of white exteriors with rust colored shutters and roofs. The path is crowded with pilgrims and I am struck with the wide variety of ages and fitness levels. All go at their own pace making the journey their own. We see cattle, horses and farms as well as beautiful views as we ascend. One of the things that made me smile was the number of dogs belonging to locals unleashed who followed their masters besides bikes or while they went about their day completely ignoring the passing pilgrims. They seemed to almost be amazed by us. We finish our day in Alto de Erro where the views of the valley below are breathtaking. We finish in good shape for today and ready for tomorrow. Some food and wine and a nice bed await! Although we weathered today with ease, I am humbled by the fact that the backend of our 16 days is much more challenging!

The Camino – Roncesvalles

Sept 9 Welcome Day
We meet our group at the Pamplona train station. Our group consists of 7 women and 2 men including John and me. There are 2 sisters from the United States, 4 lady friends from Mexico, a male traveling solo from the Phillipines plus John and me. We are all contemporaries. I know I will like this group!! Our guide describes herself as a pilgrim more than a guide and does portions of the Camino each year. She had a life changing experience after being in a University setting doing research and losing her job. She found that she is “happy” living the Camino for the last 4 years. There is another group that is traveling with us for the introductory day one who will do the full Camino in 35 days self guided. They are all American. We drive from Pamplona across the border to explore the French city of St Jean Pied a Port. Many decide to get their passports here with their first stamp but John and I want to wait for our walking start in Roncesvalles Spain. St John Pied a Port is a lovely French village where the 3 largest Jacobean Roads in France converge. We walk up to the citidal, eat another jamon sandwich and look at the shops. We get back on the bus to cross back to Roncesvalles Spain. I am anxious to get started . . .

In Roncesvalles we are lodging in a stunning former college for noviates. There is an albergue and church attached to the hotel and many pilgrims. The Camino passes right in front of the hotel. We attend mass in the small gothic church attached to the hotel and are blessed by the Navarre Bishop. It is an emotional beginning. During our group dinner with our co-pilgrims we all share what the Camino means to us. We are given our shells, passports and get our first stamps. The experience is quite emotional especially when shared in communion with others. Our guide talks about the decision to walk the Camino de Santiago as a desire to “hit the road” or to head somewhere and from that moment you become a pilgrim. Hitting the road requires a fundamental attitude of abandonment. Abandonment is being at the mercy of something greater than oneself. It is to stop oneself from being the the focal point of one’s life and to overcome the natural selfishness that keeps us from growing. It is not a contest or race. I know this will be part of my letting go and journey!!!!

Barcelona Day 2

Today is our last day to be tourists before we depart for the Camino so we spend the day walking Barcelona beginning with the Segrada Familia, the Catholic basilica mastered by Gaudi The Segrada is an awesome surprise. I expected it to be inspired but was not expecting such a wonder. It is hard to imagine one man conceiving of the Segrada with every architectural and artistic detail from the 3 different facades to the gothic interior where the columns are evocative of trees in the forest. The light through the stained glass becomes brighter as you look higher and floods the interior with peaceful light. It is a complex structure that feels simple and peaceful. The passion facade was my favorite. It is hard to imagine that this basilica is still under construction after more than 100 years – targeted for completion in 2026 to mark the 100 year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. Maybe we will be back for that!!

From the Segrada, we make our way to the Arc de Triumf located in front of the Parc de la Ciutadella; home to the world’s fair of 1888. It is a beautiful area with green space and museums.
We move onto the Picasso Museum which is housed in 5 separate but adjacent palaces of the Calle Montcada Barcelona dating back to the 13th century. We did not get to see the works inside the museum as we needed advanced tickets – next time!!

We had late afternoon tapas at El Xampanyet on the same street as the museum based on a trip advisor recommendation. This small place was crowded with locals and did not disappoint. It is named after their homemade sparkling wine which was very nice as was our jamon, tomato bread and chorizo tortilla. I could eat jamon for every meal – we will see how I feel about that at the end of the month. The evening will be enjoyed on the hotel roof top with more Spanish wine. Hopefully I have not undone all my training . . .

9.8.2016
Today we leave Barcelona for Pamplona where we will hook up on Friday with our Camino group. We loved Barcelona and it is definitely on the list as one of my favorite cities. The Catalon pride is evident with many flags displayed over balconies. Maybe the next time we visit, they will have won their independence. Regardless, the city is vibrant and exciting yet maintains a casualness and timeless approach that is quite appealing. We take the high speed train to Pamplona – a trip of 4&1/2 hours on a clean well kept train. Oh if only we could figure this out in the United States.

Pamplona is the basque seat of the Navarre region. Our hotel is in the center of the old city which is beautiful and well preserved. As we have our dinner of Rioja and jamon in the city center, we watch families coming out to enjoy each other and commune. Children and strollers are everywhere. A parade of “Giants’ for some festival (we could not find which one) takes place and the old streets fill with multiple generations shopping eating and drinking. Such a life.

Barcelona Arrival Day

We are finally here and Barcelona does not disappoint.   We spend our first afternoon exploring the Cathedral, the water front and strolling La Ramblas.   After a much needed siesta we venture out for gelato at Sante Gelato, a quaint shop where we were greeted by the husband/wife proprietors.   I had coffee and mango while John enjoyed tiramisu and dulce de leche.   We followed our gelato dinner  on the hotel roof top with several glasses of  Tempranillo red wine from the Tinta de Toro region in Central Spain.  Both the wine and gelato were yummy!!

The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia known as Barcelona Cathedral
The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia known as Barcelona Cathedral